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Luangprabang
Nestling in a slim valley
shaped by lofty, green mountains
and
cut by the swift Mekong and Khan rivers, LOUANG PHABANG exudes
tranquillity and grandeur. A tiny mountain kingdom for more than a thousand
years and designated a World Heritage site in 1995, it is endowed with a
legacy of ancient, red-roofed temples and French-Indochinese architecture,
not to mention some of the country's most refined cuisine, its richest
culture and most sacred Buddha image. The very name Louang Phabang conjures
up the classic image of
Laos
– streets of ochre colonial houses and swaying palms, lines of saffron-robed
monks gliding through the morning mist, and, of course, longtail boats
racing down the Mekong. This is where the first proto-Lao nation took root.
It is the most Lao city in Laos, the only one where ethnic Lao are in the
majority and where the back streets and cobblestoned lanes have a distinctly
village-like feel. It's the birthplace of countless Lao rituals and the
origin of a line of rulers. Conveniently, Louang Phabang is also the
transport hub of northern Laos, with road, river and air links – both
domestic and international – all leading to the city.
The earliest Lao settlers made
their way down the Nam Ou Valley, sometime after the tenth century,
absorbing the territory on which the city lies and naming it Xiang Dong
Xiang Thong. But it wasn't until legendary Lao warrior Fa Ngum captured
the town in 1353 that it emerged as the heart of a thriving, independent
kingdom in its own right. He founded the kingdom of Lane Xang Hom Khao
– the Land of a Milli on
Elephants and the White Parasol – and established the line of kings that was
to rule Laos for six centuries. With Fa Ngum came monks,
artisans and learned men from the Khmer court, a legal code, and Theravada
Buddhism. Striking temples were built, epic poems composed and sacred texts
copied, and in 1512, King Visoun brought the very holy Pha Bang Buddha image
to the city, a hugely significant event. Lane Xang was, for the moment, a
major power on the Indochinese peninsula, but by 1563 the fear of
encroaching Burmese led to the capital being moved to Vientiane. The Pha
Bang was left behind and the city renamed after the revered image. From then
on, Louang Phabang had
a roller-coaster ride, invaded first by the Burmese and then by the Siamese,
until King Oun Kham finally agreed to co-operate with France, and the city's
French period began. During the two Indochina wars, Louang Phabang fared
better than most towns in Laos. However, the Second Indochina War ultimately
took its toll on the city's ceremonial life, which lost its regal heart when
the Pathet Lao ended the royal line by forcing King Sisavang Vatthana to
abdicate in 1975. |